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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.